How to Photograph Waterfalls Like a Professional

Learn to Create Stunning Images of Cascading Waterfalls With a dSLR

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Slow the Shutter Speed to Blur Water Motion - Jeff Bartlett
Slow the Shutter Speed to Blur Water Motion - Jeff Bartlett
Smooth water highlights most waterfall images. Although it appears to be a professional technique, amateurs can easily capture similar results with any dSLR camera.

Professional nature photographers regularly capture stunning images of cascading waterfalls using a combination of technique and equipment. Highlighted by silky-smooth water textures, dramatic contrast and tranquil atmosphere, amateur photographers are often left in awe of the professional’s images.

Thankfully, with today’s dSLR cameras amateurs can easily capture similar quality results by following three simple steps: using the proper equipment, shooting at the right time, and properly setting up the camera.

Equipment Needed to Photograph Waterfalls

While each camera lens, filter and accessory has its place, amateur photographers need only a few common pieces of equipment to add to their dSLR to capture stunning photos of cascading water.

Much like architecture photography, a sturdy tripod is the backbone of any slow-shutter landscape image. Whether buying an inexpensive version at a department store or a carbon-fiber version at a local camera store, look for one with a quick release head and enough weight to hold steady. Using a shutter release cable will also increase camera stability by limiting the photographer’s contact with the camera.

Next, a simple polarizing filter will help produce vivid colors while decreasing shutter speeds dramatically. A Circular polarizer works best, but requires the photographer to dial the filter into the correct position relative to the sun. Another option is a neutral density filter, which decreases shutter speeds by 2-3 full stops.

When to shoot Images of Waterfalls

Waterfalls images must be created before the sunrise or after sunset. Unless located in a well-shaded area, images created throughout the day will either have too high of shutter speed or blown out detail in the background of the image.

Shooting at either dusk or dawn gives photographers the perfect light required to lower the shutter camera’s shutter speed without loosing detail in bright portions of the camera. The even lighting will limit shadows throughout the frame but may lead to white balance problems. All digital sensors react differently in this situation, but the camera may need the white balance set to shade.

Camera Settings to Capture the Perfect Waterfall Image

After getting the camera set up on a tripod, in the proper light, and with a strong composition, it’s important to use the proper camera settings to capture the desired image. There are a variety of different shooting modes a photographer can use; however, the general rule is a small aperture with a long shutter speed.

Whether using Shutter priority, aperture priority or manual mode, select the camera’s lowest ISO setting. Next, select an aperture between f/11 and f/22, insuring a shutter speed well above 1”. The slow shutter speed will create the desired silky water texture, while the small aperture will create sharp detail throughout a large depth of field.

Use the LCD screen to verify results, and adjust the aperture and shutter speed combination to obtain the desired image.

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Nov 8, 2009 8:37 PM
Guest :
“Waterfalls images must be created before the sunrise or after sunset. …. Shooting at either dusk or dawn gives photographers the perfect light required to lower the shutter camera’s shutter speed without loosing detail in bright portions of the camera.” Doing so at these time periods will guarantee that the photos are taken in the shade unless the area in front of the camera is unobstructed and does not cast a shadow onto the waterfall. As such, you should have added that white balance should usually be set to shade.

The “perfect light” link takes one to a column on backlighting. Considering that waterfalls usually have ledges or other sloping conditions behind them, how will they be backlit?


Cornell
Nov 9, 2009 8:01 AM
Jeff Bartlett :
Hello Cornell,

You made a couple of outstanding additions to the article. The backlit link was an error made while publishing a number of stories at the same time. Thanks for catching that for me.

The white balance issue was a definite oversight because my Nikon d300 performs so well in this situation that I no longer need to make this adjustment. If I miss by a few K, I choose to quickly adjust it in lightroom or ACR. Unfortunately, many people are using models without the auto white balance quality of a d300 and I must write to target everyone.

Thanks for the feedback.
Jeff
Jun 2, 2010 2:34 PM
Guest :
A fast shutter speed results in "frozen" water, but a very long exposure results in unnatural "cotton" water. I prefer a speed around 1/10 sec to smooth the flow but still resemble water.
Dave
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